How to Build an AT-3 Sagger

I got a sudden urge to build some anti-tank capability for the Soviets. Thus I decided to build the most recognizable infantry anti-tank weapon: the AT-3 Sagger.

I started out by cutting a 1/4 inch dowel into sections 1 inch long.


Then I took a sanding block and beveled the ends.


I made a cross incision on the backs of the dowels with an hobby saw.


After that I glued in sections of post-it notes to make the fins of the Sagger.


Then I trimmed the post-it notes down to finish the ATGM.


For the launcher I started with blocks of balsa 1/4 x 1/2 x 3/4 inches long.


To the blocks I added wire pieces, then super glued them down. These will serve as launch rails for the ATGM to rest on.


I then glued the Saggers to the launch rails.


After that I painted them with Ceramcoat’s Forest Green.


The finished Sagger looks great, soon the Soviets will be setting up the Saggers left and right. NATO forces will need to be very careful from now on!


Until next time,

– MinisMuse


M163 VADS and M48 Chaparral

I finished painting some anti-air for the U.S. over the weekend.  Two M163 VADS and one M48 Chaparral are painted and ready to use. The Chaparral and the VADS were designed to complement one another, with the Chaparral taking out long range targets and the VADS dealing with short range ones. This was my first time painting U.S. 1980’s camouflage and I like how it turned out. I realized afterwords that the gun barrels were supposed to be black on the VADS, but I like them the way they are. Soon these will be shooting down those pesky SU-27’s and Mi-24’s!

Until next time,

– MinisMuse

1/350th LCAC

I got a MRC LCAC and it sat on a workbench half finished for quite awhile. This model was a frustrating build because the turbines and rudders were very finicky, but turned out great and full of detail. The painting was fun to do, it comes with some great decals, and you get sprues for two LCAC’s in the box! I plan to also paint up some LVTP’s so I can have a US Marine’s force. The LCAC can hold 4 Tanks or 8 APC’s. I think it will be fun to do some beach assault games with this, the Marines try to seize a key dock from the Soviets. It is a great model that I enjoyed throughly, I would highly recommend it to anyone.

Until next time,

– MinisMuse

Assorted Terrain

I finished some assorted terrain during the week. Rather than the usual “it needed to be finished,” these were more of an impulse build. The best thing about these is how most of it can be used for different scales.


The first thing I made was a retro Sci-Fi dome.


I also painted up a building/generator of some kind that was made by Marx.


I also got my hands on a spool, and decided to make it into an industrial rope spool. A couple more of these and I could have some dockyard terrain.


The last thing I made was originally a chapstick container, but it had a great shape. A lick of silver paint plus a number 1 and it can now be used as an objective marker.


Until next time,

– MinisMuse

How To Build Zone Mortalis Terrain

Over the last week I have been building some Zone Mortalis Terrain to play with. I decided that my terrain had to be modular, so I could change the setup when I wanted to. I also decided to make the terrain as the inside of an top secret Inquisition base, so many of the tiles had Inquisition sign on them. I ended up with a couple different types of wall sections, and it looks great on the tabletop.


I had a bunch of plastic dividers lying around, so I started by cutting the tabs off the edges of them.


I then cut some wood bases in half to create a base for the walls.


After that I attached the walls to the base with super glue.


Then I primed the sections with grey primer.


I then detailed the raised parts of the wall with white.


Then I added Inquisition signs, “Danger” warnings, or claw marks to the walls.


I also made joints for the wall sections by cutting foam board to the right height and mounting it on square bases. The joints were a combination of X, T, and L joints.

The entire lot took me about 3 hours over the course of the week, so it is a highly effective way of making terrain and it looks great.


I tested it on a 2×2 ft. board and it worked like a charm, with extra panels left over.


The terrain would also work great for Zone Mortalis, Infinity and also RPG games. I plan to make a lot more of these so I can cover a 4×4 board.

Until next time,

– MinisMuse

Memorial Day and Wargaming

This Memorial Day I would like to reflect on that while we play the games of war, there are people at war who give their lives to protect us. In wargames, there is no blood on the table, there are no lost loved ones, there is no pain, but in war there is.

Great War is at present, I am con- 
vinced, not only the most expensive 
game in the universe, but it is a game 
out of all proportion. Not only are the 
masses of men and material and suffering 
and inconvenience too monstrously big 
for reason, but — the available heads 
we have for it, are too small. That, I 
think, is the most pacific realisation con- 
ceivable, and Little War brings you to it 
as nothing else but Great War can do.

– H.G. Wells from Little Wars

Some time today, call, write, email, or tell someone thank you for protecting our country and freedom. If there is one thing that wargames can teach us, it is that war is a evil thing.

Until next time,

– MinisMuse

After Action Report: Screening Force

3 hours ago, Soviet forces moved across the German border. British forces in the area are rushing to prepare for the oncoming red tide. In front, the screening forces are desperately trying to buy time for their units to organize. – BBC News Correspondent Edward Brown

The game was British screening forces vs. a Soviet column, with the Soviets trying to get off the board a quickly as possible and the British trying to stop them. I was the screening force, so while I had fewer forces, I also had surprise on my side.

The British forces consisted of Scorpion x5, Swingfire x2, Chieftain Mk. 10 x3, Fox x1, and Artillery strike x1.


Soviet forces were: T-72 x10, BMP-1 x10, ZSU-23-4 x2, BMD-1 x3, BRDM-1 x2, Pre-game barrages x5, and Mig-21 with rocket pods x1.


The Soviets would start on one end of the board, and drive forward trying to reach the other end as fast as possible. The British would set up hidden, until revealed by the Soviets, or the British fired.

Pre-game barrages of the Soviets only destroy a Scorpion in the town and pin another Scorpion down.


As Soviet forces move on to the board, the British artillery strike hits and kills 3 T-72s, 2 BMD’s, and pins a BMP.


Soviet forces are cautious, and spread out into the forest to hunt for enemies that may be lying in wait. While they do find enemies, they are wasting valuable time.


A BMP is confronted by two Scorpions, and the Scorpions fire ineffectively at the surprised BMP.


Reinforcements move to attack the Scorpions and take one out.


The Scorpions in return kill the last remaining BMD, but the second Scorpion is knocked out by BMP fire. The first (small) victory goes to the Soviets!


The Soviet advance continues and a Chieftain fires on the enemy column approaching but is taken out by a Malyutka ATGM.


Parallel to the advancing Soviet column, a Chieftain and two Swingfires appear and attack the Soviets, destroying a T-72.


In revenge the combined Soviet fire kills one of the Swingfires and the Chieftain on the ridge.


The Soviet advance continues by knocking out the other Swingfire. The Soviets then pass the halfway mark on the board making their way towards the town.


A Scorpion is revealed and fires, but misses its shot at the leading BMP.


The Soviets move into the town and knock out the Scorpion that shot at the BMP.

The Fox and a second Scorpion appear and take out a BRDM-1, and a BMP. The burning hull of the BMP now prevents the Soviets from crossing the bridge until it can be pushed away.


The Fox and Scorpion quickly have the tables turned on them and are knocked out by Soviet fire.

The last remaining Chieftain fires from the church, where it has been waiting. The shot goes true and kills a T-72.


One of the ZSU-23-4’s bulldozes the burning BMP off the bridge to clear it, while the BMP’s ford the stream.


The Chieftain is finally destroyed after 2 rounds of ineffective Soviet shooting at it.


At this point it was realized that the Mig had not been used, but it was to late to do anything about it. With the last British units destroyed the Soviets were free to move off the board.


All told the game took about 2 hours to play and I had a great time playing. Unfortunately the game ended a tie, as the British did not kill enough and delay the Soviets for long enough and the Soviets did not move off the board fast enough to call it a victory.

Reasons for Soviet defeat: the Soviets spent to much concentrating on one target and stoping the advance because of it. They should have tasked some units to killing it and continued to move the rest of the column ahead.

Reasons for British defeat: as usual for me, my bad rolling got in my way. I failed to kill anything in my ambushes, which would have tipped the game in my favor. My other problem was not building a concentrated group of firepower, as every time I would attack, I would fire, and then get destroyed by the tons of Soviets around. The other thing that would have helped would be waiting for the enemy column to pass and then attacking with the Swingfires and Chieftain. I could have killed my opponents command tank and won.

While the Soviet drive has been slowed by our brave boys, the Soviet momentum is still present. British troops will be prepared, but not as much as they wished. Good luck to you lads from everyone at home, and God save the Queen! – BBC News Correspondent Edward Brown

Until next time,

– MinisMuse

Warhammer 40,000 Imperial Bunker

This bunker had been siting around as an unfinished terrain piece for quite awhile so I decided that it needed to be finished. The bunker is made of foamboard and photo matting.


I applied a textured paint to the whole of the bunker to make it look like concrete.


I then drybrushed it with a light grey to bring out the texture.


After that I applied an Imperial Aquila using tweezers and a sponge.


I then applied a black wash to the bunker to tone it down.


To finish I added a brown wash to the bunker, and a rust wash in random spots to make the bunker less monotone.

This is the final product:


Until next time,

– MinisMuse

How To Paint Traveller Imperial Marines

I bought some recasts of Citadel’s Traveller RPG figures from RAFM. They are highly deatiled sculpts at 15mm and were designed for the deck plans that Games Designers Workshop made for Traveller.

I started by soaking them in warm soapy water and then scrubbed them to remove the mold release agent. Then I hot glued them on to nails to make them easy to handle when painting.


I primed them white to start with so that the wash would show up.


To give a blue color to the armor and pick out all the detail I gave them a 1 to 1 wash of GHQ Sea Blue and water. This works really well to provide color and definition to to models.


I painted the visors with a Folk Art Bronze to give the visors a nice sheen.


I painted the weapons with a 4 to 1 to 1 mix of silver, brown, and black.


To give them squad markings I painted the right sholderpad and the line on the top of the helmet with Ceramcoat Opaque Yellow.


Next I painted the backpacks and hoses with GHQ Charcoal Grey. To add defintion to the backpacks I drybruhsed with GHQ Ocean Grey


I painted the bases with GHQ Camouflage Brown to look like the desert of a far-away world.


To finished off the miniatures I gave them 2 washes of GHQ Dark Brown on the bases. I ended by spraying them with 2 layers of Dullcote to prevent the paint from ever coming off.


Here are some images of the finished models:

Picture of the squad:


My favorite of the group:


Until next time,

– MinisMuse

How to Scratch Build an Onager Dunecrawler

Some time ago, the Mechanicus leaks were doing their rounds and this caught my eye:

Onager Dunecrawler

This picture got my creative gears spinning and I decided to make one of these for myself. The model looked to be a Sentinel cabin with legs that had a gun added on.

I started by constructing 2x2x2 inch foamboard cabins to provide the top of the model. After gluing the foamboard together I shaved it down and added photo matting to the front and back of the cabin for an armored look.

Wave 1 Cabin

Once that was finished and dry, I glued on some details and other bits I had lying around to add visual interest. Old calculator keys became sensor pods, and brackets became weapon mounts. I added glue around the seams to smooth out any rough edges and fill any gaps in the foamboard.


The Dunecrawlers needed weapons to deliver death to the enemies of the Mechanicus so I decided to arm them with plasma cannons. The round base was the top of a paint jar, with a barrel glued on. Some Lego pieces and wire made it look more like the Mechanicus had built it.


The weapon bases were the bottoms of the paint jars that I glued to foamboard and added wire to. The tops pop on and off, so if I want to change weapons I would just have to switch tops.


It was after this point that the Dunecrawler model was released and I could get a full 360˚ view of the model. The release of the Dunecrawler model lead to a final flurry of building activity that finished the model in a day.

To the back of the cabins I attached Computer fans with grating made of picture matting.


To the side of the fan I put on exhaust pipes made out of a pen casing and drinking straws. I also added rivets to the back of the the grating on the fan using a thick mix of paint and glue, a couple layers were necessary to get the desired effect on the rivets.


I added some grates and some pieces I had lying around to finish the back. You can also see a nice shot of the legs (that I forgot to photograph). The legs are 2×0.5 inch long pieces of foarmboard with a 1/4 inch nut at the end. Glued to the nut is a nail with a spring attached. I glued wires to the undersides of the legs and added detailing to the sides of the legs.


I masked the model in masking tape in preparation for priming, as well as gluing on the weapons.


To finish the models I added the communications array to the top of the Dunecrawlers.


There are some pieces that won’t go on until the entire model is painted, such as the communications antenna and some screws, but for now the models are ready to be primed and painted!


Until next time,

– MinisMuse